SkinFacts - Skin Care & Anti-Aging Products

What is this SKINFACTS page?

This page contains information that we believe may be of interest to you our visitors. It is offered for educational purposes only. We provide it in good faith belief based on our research and knowledge at the time of its writing. However, we are not liable if it is incorrect or incomplete. In fact, since these are the apex of the cutting edge topics regarding noninvasive skincare, we expect our answers and solutions to evolve rapidly as more data is available. We encourage each individual to research the issues and our conclusions. The more you know the more you will understand what we offer.

Please note that when applying any new skin care product to the skin it is advisable to test it for a few days on a nonfacial but somewhat sensitive portion of the skin prior to fully applying it to the face. The inner forearm is used by many. Please read our Terms, Policies and Disclaimers prior to ordering.

Note that the FDA has not evaluated or approved any of the claims on this site and that products offered here are not intended to treat or cure any disease.

What are some basics regarding anti-aging product choices?

1. Price does not equal quality. The active ingredients in our products are exactly the same as the most expensive brands in the world, except that we're usually 6 months to a year ahead and use the correct proportions. There is generally only one international patentholder and manufacturer of the active ingredient.

2. The proportion of a key ingredient, usually by weight expressed as a percentage of the whole, is determinitive of whether it does what its supposed to. This does not that a little less may mean its a little less effective. It means that it will not do anything at all. On the opposite end of the spectrum adding more of an active ingredient than the substantiation test results demonstrate as most effective often reduces or eliminates the results. Unless it constitutes a manufacturer's trade secret we tell you the percentages of these important ingredients which always correspond to the maximum suggested effective and safe proportions borne out through testing and manufacturer's recommendations. If a product doesn't reveal the percentage of an expensive active it probably means less not more. Again this is true regardless of its pricetag. Conversely products proclaiming an excessive concentration is appealing to the "more must mean better" thought process. At best they offer no additional benefit. At worst they can be irrevocably harmful.

3. Many actives, particularly the various short peptides compete with each other to reach their dermal destination. Products that list multiple peptides is often a reflection of another tentacle of the "more must be better" mindset. Likewise it may block a consumers skincare goals. Picture a pack of hungry dogs racing towards a single small dish of food. None will have an effective meal. Its often best to apply the ingredients seperately, by a few hours or a few weeks, than to apply them all at once. This is our general approach in many of our products. There are certain peptides that do compliment each other and this has been revealed through substantial study. For example Matrixyl 3000 contains two peptides that have this symbiotic 1 + 1 = 3 relationship when they are combined at the correct 8% proportion in the final product.

Why are skin identical ceramides the most important breakthrough since lanolin?

1. A few personal topical applications of a full strength version of multiple skin identical ceramides will answer this question more effectively than all the data below.

2. Ceramides are the primary components of the multilamellar lipid bilayer, located throughout stratum corneum. The stratum corneum is the outermost portion of our epidermis and is approximately 5 microns thick on average. The other principal macro-components of this lipid bilayer are cholesterol and free fatty acids. It is through this lipid bilayer that most everything leaving or entering our bodies transdermally will travel.

By far, the largest constituent of the stratum corneum are corneocytes. Corneocytes are large nucleus free (dead) keratocytes that have migrated upward and will soon fall off (exfoliate). The envelope surrounding the corneocytes is almost impermeable to diffusion of substances in any phase, making the only gateway, in or out,the lipid bilayer.

3. To understand the structural role (as opposed to the signaling role) of ceramides its helpful to understand the basic architecture of the stratum corneum, Imagine the corneocytes as solid bricks in a structure being layed down alternately crossways one layer on top of another. These corneocyte "bricks" provide the primary dermal function of barrier protection,like bricks in a wall.

The lipid bilayer is like the mortar between the much larger bricks, forming the only continous portion of the stratum corneum. Our lipid "mortar" is made up of about 50% ceramides, 30% cholesterol and 20% free fatty acids.

There are 9 different kinds of human epidermal ceramides (ceramides 1-9 in ascending order of increasing polarity) that have been identified to date. They have different fuctions both as structural components and as important cellular signaling messengers for such functions as water retention, cell proliferation and even cellular lifespan (ceramide-mediated apoptosis). Without ceramides life would not be possible. But analogous to the sand in concrete mortar slowly falling out as time goes on, ceramide levels go down with age. This impairs the overall structural integrity and diminishes the effectiveness of our epidermal barrier. Toxins and germs then enter more freely and water escapes. Our skin becomes dry and loose.

The benefit of replacing the lost sand in the aging mortar should escape no one. Unlike our structure, where replacing the mortar would require completely disassembling the entire structure brick by brick, the replacement of ceramides in our skin has recently become possible with the application of topically applied skin identical ceramides. Permeation and integration into the lipid bilayer is relatively simple for skin identical ceramides because the lipid bilayer sees them as parts of itself. In fact this is what they become.

Note that the shape of ceramide molecules are like a U shaped carpet tac. With 3 of the Ceramides, namely ceramides 1, 4, and 9, one prong of the U is very long. These particular human ceramides have the function of serving as literal "rivets" holding the layers of the lipid bilayer in place. Replacing these particular riveting ceramides restores firmness to the loose skin in a very literal manner.

Assuming they are compounded in the correct proportions, and cholesterol and free fatty acids are present, ceramides will automatically line themselves up in pairs head to head, row after row, layer upon layer, with the layers folding over upon one another in an accordian like manner. They will also space the layers at exact predetermined distances.

These layers we notice that the pages are not all the same thickness. There are two possible thickness's of the layers of the lipid bilayer of the human stratum corneum, 5.4nm is the thinner of the two (known as the "Short Periodic Phase" or SSP), and 12.8nm the thicker (known as the "Long Periodic Phase or LPP). We also notice a consistent pattern in the layering of the SPP and LPP types which is always 'thick short thick' (LPP-SPP-LPP). Looking closer we see that the LPP layers are more crystalized and solid than the SPP layers which are more fluid like. The atoms in the thick layer are much more tightly packed in one type of repeating geometric shape, namely hexagonal. The atoms in the SPP are further apart but still organized in a different type of 3D geometric shape, namely orthorhombic. The thin layer is a "liquid crystal layer' and is sandwiched inbetween the two more solid layers. These layers are in a constant state of flux between the liquid and the solid states/shapes giving the skin fluid like characteristics. In actuality there are three phases rather than two. There are two crystal phases, hexagonal and orthorombic, and the liquid phase without crystaline structure.

Regarding the two crystal phases pure carbon's crystaline possibilities makes a good example. Pure carbon make up both graphite (pencil lead) and perfect diamond, a soft substance and the hardest substance made up of the exact same atoms. The difference is in the crystal structure. When carbon is compressed with a specific weight equal to that of the surface of the earth 80 - 100 miles down the atoms reorganize themselves into a much tighter and different repetative crystal structure. (Further down it gets to hot and they burn up. Less than 80 miles there isn't enough pressure. They are brought to the surface with already cooled lava known as kimerlite). The three phases of the ceramide organization change back and forth especially with temperature. Without ceramide 1 being present there will (and free fatty acids) present there will be no such organiztion. Without colesterol there is no development of LPP. In unhealthy skin this organiztional pattern can become abnormal. The reverse may be more correct. When this pattern becomes disorganized the skin is diseased.

Ceramide 1 is very expensive and most of it goes to oncological applications. Its interesting to note that in vitro a portion of the skin identical ceramide 1 can be replaced with ceramide 9 and the stucture will create itself. However this is not the case with 100% substitution.

Until the very recent improvements in synthetic skincare synthesis pig skin was considered very close to human and was thus used for many testing situation. It has now been determined that the pig skin's lipid layers are not organized exactly like human skin.Also pig skin contains no ceramide 9 while human skin does. We will probably see different patterns in each animal species.

Ceramides are the primary components of these layers and will reorganize themselves into these complex patterns ex vivo even when seperated and reunited if combined with optimal ratios of free fatty acids and cholesterol.

4. Ceramide molecules consist of two components that have joined. One component is a sphigolipid (either phytosphingosine, shpingosine or 6-hydroxysphingosine) and the other a free fatty acid. Visually they can be imagined as a U shaped carpet nail. In the lipid bilayer they create rows of pairs with the closed end of the U's of each pair facing one another with a tiny gap inbetween.

5. There are two different naming systems currently in use with respect to ceramides. The one principally used until very recently denoted the 9 known primary ceramides present in human tissue as Ceramides 1 through 9 (in ascending order of relative polarity). An older system, known as the "Motta system" has now returned to common usage and has been adopted as the new system for purposes of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). The equivelants between the two systems are: Ceramide 1 = ceramide EOS, Ceramide 2 = ceramide NS, Ceramide 3 = Ceramide NP, Ceramide 4 = Ceramide EOH, Ceramide 5 = ceramide AS, Ceramide 6 = ceramide AP, Ceramide 7 = ceramide AH, ceramide 8 = ceramide NH, and Ceramide 9 = ceramide EOP.

A few other ceramides that are covalently bound in human epidermal tissue but not yet relavent to skin care products at this time include Ceramide OS, Ceramide OH, Ceramide OP and Ceramide OD under the Motta system of ceramide names.

6. The primary free fatty acids present in the human stratum corneum's lipid bilayer are 16:0, 18:0, 20:0, 22:0, 23:0, 24:0 and 26:0 at ratios of 1.3, 3.3, 6.7, 41.7, 5.4, 36.8 and 4.7 respectively.

to be continued . . .

What is Matrixyl 3000™ and what does it do?

The short answer:

Matrixyl 3000™ is the trademark name of Sederma, Inc. for a patented dual peptide active that when used at the 8% recommended use in a properly compounded product demonstrated significant improvement in objective benchmarks in the skin of test subjects. In addition to the obvious improvements shown in the photos there were measurable reduction in wrinkles, improvement in elasticity and reduction in skin roughness. This should not surprise anyone as Sederma chemists were the original pioneers in skin peptide technology. Their short peptide skincare signaling actives, known as “matrikines”, continue to be regarded as the gold standard to which all other such products aspire. We are very proud to offer our 8% Matrixyl 3000 ™ product acquired directly from Sederma, Inc. being manufactured at their advanced facility in France.

Incidentally, if fear of science or technical terms or boredom typically stops the reader from reading on, but the subject of skincare is really an area of interest please read on. There’s a few items ahead that will be beneficial for the rest of one’s life in many areas. When one is reading an article about skincare and suddenly sees “Pal-KTTKS” as a term suddenly can feel like one must know an ancient and forgotten form of Chinese calligraphy. Shortly you’ll see it for what it is and simply read on without having to memorize or look up anything. One doesn’t have to be a chemist or scientifically oriented to develop a good handle on knowing exactly what they are buying and putting on their skin. Also, there is no one who knows everything about the skin or its care as we are all still learning.

Understanding the skin and its preservation is really still in its infancy.

The long answer:

1. Cosmetic Nomenclature Issues:

It’s important in the science and specifically the cosmetic science area to clarify nomenclature issues. The naming system for cosmetic ingredients in the US is managed by the Cosmetics Toiletries and Fragrances Association (CTFA) and is known as the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients or INCI. INCI names are now mandated on the ingredient statement of every US consumer personal care product under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. The primary purpose of this relatively recent requirement is public safety and consumer protection. For example it allows a consumer to determine if a product contains an ingredient they may be allergic to.

INCI uniformity has required modification of names to fit its still developing naming protocol. The long term benefits of a predictable and static system are readily apparent. In the short term, especially with reference to peptides, the quest for naming uniformity has resulted in significant confusion both for consumers and manufacturers. Often a INCI name assignment has resulted in a new ingredient being assigned a name that has already been assigned to a totally unrelated ingredient. Then the old ingredient will be renamed with the same effect to another ingredient and so on. In the meantime there are thousands of products on the shelves with the original names already printed on the boxes. They are permitted to use the boxes until its time for a new printing because of the enormous packaging costs to the manufacturers. Of course this defeats the public safety purpose of the INCI naming adoption with respect to these ingredients at the present time.

Happily there are two foolproof systems that scientists have utilized for ages to identify peptides which even disclose the amino acid sequencing in a short concise manner right in the name. We’ll discuss those momentarily. First lets discuss amino acids, peptides and proteins.

2. What is an amino acid?

Knowing the basics of amino acid has become indispensable to skincare and its related products. Everyone who has studied nutrition knows that amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. There are twenty naturally occurring standard amino acids. Of these twenty there are eight that are referred to as “essential amino acids”. By “essential” we are referring to those amino acids which the body cannot manufacture by itself from the other amino acids.

Chemically amino acids always have a central carbon atom (the “alpha carbon” or “α-carbon”). Because there are four electrons in a carbon atoms outermost shell, and it needs eight, there are four places where a single bond may attach. With amino acids three of these four places are occupied by an amine (N2H), a hydrogen (H), and a carboxyl (COOH) group respectively. The fourth open place on the α-carbon, (the R-group), is the only point on the structure where the amino standard 20 amino acids will vary from one to another.

Amino Acid Nomenclature (IMPORTANT!)

As mentioned above there are two naming systems in general use for naming the amino acid components in general use. These avoid the present confusion while the INCI system is being updated. While its not necessary to memorize this it would be wise to print it out for future reference as it will become handy in the future when engaging in skincare product research or anywhere else aminos, peptides or functional proteins are involved. Below are the tree and one letter amino naming equivelants. Skinutrition will be using the one letter system throughout the rest of this SKINFACTS section.

3 and 1 Letter Standard Amino Acid Naming Abbreviations:

Amino Acid 3 Ltr 1Ltr Abreviations

Alanine -- Ala -- A

Arginine -- Arg -- R

Asparagine -- Asn -- N

Aspartic Acid -- Asp -- D

Cysteine -- Cys -- C

Glutamic Acid -- Glu -- E

Glycine -- Gly -- G

Histidine -- His -- H

Isoleucine -- Ile -- I

Leucine -- Leu -- L

Lysine -- Lys -- K

Methionine -- Met -- M

Phenylalanine -- Phe -- F

Proline -- Pro -- P

Serine -- Ser -- S

Threonine -- Thr -- T

Tryptophan -- Trp -- W

Tyrosine -- Tyr -- Y

Valine -- Val -- V

What is a Peptide? (Matrixyl 3000(tm) con't)
All peptides consist of amino acid chains. Each amino acid is bound to the next by a "peptide bond". There are several definitions of what a peptide is generally related to its length (short) compared to a protein (long). None of the definitions is completely adequate. One definition arbitrarily places the cutoff point at around 50 aminos. Most of the peptides relavent to skincare products are below 20 peptides in length. Many of these are "peptide fragments" which means that they are an amino acid chain that is a section or snippet of a larger functional protein. The aminos are in the exact same arrangement as that particular section of the protein. Most of the peptides of interest to skincare products are "signaling peptides". Signaling peptides send a message for a biological process to begin or end. There is usually a corresponding receptor site for signaling molecules to plug into in order to transmit the message they carry.

The discovery of "Matrikines"

During the late 1980's and early 1990's research was being conducted by Professor Maquart and his team in Paris, France in relation to short peptide sequences from collagen, procollagen and elastin fragments and their ability to accelerate wound healing.

When the skin is wounded the elastin and collagen proteins from the skin's structural matrix break into fragments maintaining their specific amino acid sequences. Their function then may become that of signaling peptides instructing the various phases of cleanup and repair. These were named "Matrikines(tm)" which is a trademarked term of Sederma, Inc.

As we age the ability of our skin to repair itself effectively becomes less efficient. When we were in our teenage and younger years many remember that minor wounds seemed to repair themselves rapidly and with little scar damage compared to latter life.

Certain matrikines were found thru experimentation to advance desirable skin turnover not only with damaged skin but also with repect to healty skin. Among the earlier amino acid sequences are KTTKS from alpha-1 procollagen, VGVAPG from elastin and GHK from collagen 1 (see 1 letter abbreviations for amino acids above).

Most of these are combined with a lipid or another molecule to allow permeation thru the lipid bilayer (see dicussion of lipid bilayer in Ceramide section above). For example, KTTKS is reacted with palmitic acid to form Pal-KTTKS.

Matrixyl(tm) is a standardized solution containing Pal-KTTKS and was the predecessor to Matrixyl 3000(tm). Both the names and the patents are the exclusive property of Sederma, Inc. and are used here by permission.

under constuction - to be continued

Matrixyl 3000 (tm)

Testing by Sederma, Inc. never stopped. It was discovered that combinations of particular patented Matrikines were more effective than the original Matrixyl formula. One of these synergistic combinations consisted of Pal-GHK (individually the Sederma, Inc. product Biopeptide-CL (tm)), and Pal-GQPR (individually the Sederma Inc. product Rigin (tm)). These are the two peptides in the standardized solution called Matrixyl 3000 (tm), also a Sederma, Inc. product.

under construction - please revisit shortly

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